Pampore (J&K): It is a chilly morning in late September, the air brimming with the fragrance of Crocus sativus, the flower that produces the precious spice known as saffron, or zafran by its Persian name.
Against the backdrop of lofty snow-capped mountains and a road lined with willow trees sits a field as big as a football pitch, packed with purple blooms. Villagers have already busied themselves before the break of dawn, fighting the cold in their traditional pherans, and picking the delicate flowers in their wicker baskets.
The greatest step taken to protect pride of Jammu and Kashmir is awarding to it the Geographical Indication (GI) tag to keep the adulterators and fakes at bay. Saffron is worth its weight in gold. Kashmiri saffron has been associated with elegance, sophistication, and hundreds of years of history. It should not be seen as merely another agricultural product, but rather as part of the region’s historic and cultural heritage, which must be conserved and safeguarded.
The coloring strength (crocin concentration), odour (safranal), and taste of saffron determine its quality (picrocrocin). Safranal concentration is high in the finest saffron. The Kashmir saffron is famous worldwide due to its very high crocin & safranal content. The quality and high labour cost renders it a high price. The GI certification will help farmers get the best remunerative price and prevent the common practice of adulteration in saffron.
In the Indian subcontinent, saffron is known by many names: Zafran in Urdu (derived from Persian), Kesar in Hindi, Kong Posh in Kashmiri, and Kungumapoo in Tamil. It was given a status by the Mughals – the Turkic kings from Central Asia that made Kashmir their home in 16th century, taking saffron wherever they established court and introducing it into their cuisine. Under their rule, saffron, as a colour and scent, became routine in the royal kitchens. It became well-known in biryani, the gold rice stacked with meat. It was used in lamb stews; in breads like sheermal, a sweet, thick flatbread dipped in saffron water that is today eaten in Lucknow, Awadh’s capital in India’s North; in fruit sherbets as a antidote for the tired; and in phirni, a rice pudding made with spices and enjoyed in North India and Pakistan.
There are many local legends about how saffron came to Kashmir. One says that in 12th century Sufi saints Khawaja Masood Wali and Sheikh Sharif-u-din Wali offered a local chieftain a saffron bulb after he cured them of an illness while they were traveling. Another story claims that the Persians brought it with them in 500 B.C. to further trade and market. A third story brings the spice back to the Hindu Tantric kings who mixed it into hot water to create love potions.
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